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I am a late-night person, often working until 2 AM. For me, exploring the origin of tea in Assam begins in that groggy morning state before my first cup of black tea. That first sip gives a kickstart to my day in the real sense. This routine is shared by most Indians, particularly the Assamese, and perhaps most people worldwide. Yet few know the full history behind this legendary brew.
More amusing is the fact that probably the people from this Assam region and around, who are in such proximity to the tea gardens or the “Saah Bagaan”s as we call them, also might not be able to give you a clear account of how Assam tea became the wonder it is today. I have always found the true origin of tea in Assam deeply fascinating. Though tea is thought to have originated in China, Assam tea is a unique variety native to this region. It has been part of tribal culture for centuries, long before the world knew its name.
The Beginning of Tea in Assam
Assam has been a land of different communities who have their own cultures and traditions since time immemorial. One of these communities, the Singphos, lived in the upper reaches of the Brahmaputra Plains, spread sparingly along the Burma border, protecting the foundational history behind the origin of tea in Assam.
Some of these communities, in general and Singphos in particular, held deep knowledge of this wonder plant and its medicinal properties. The leaves, when properly brewed, were used to cure ailments and rejuvenate hunters during long expeditions.
Singpho folklore tells how two brothers chewed wild leaves that instantly revived them during a hunt. This discovery inspired the community to adopt tea as a daily beverage, creating ‘Falap‘, leaves processed, packed into bamboo containers, and smoked for preservation.
Comes Along Maniram Dewan & Robert Bruce
In 1823, Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce journeyed into Assam, guided by the sharp insights of Maniram Dewan, an official of the Ahom kingdom. Together, they met Singpho chief Bessa Gaum, who introduced them to the wild tea plants thriving in the region.
Captivated by the discovery, Bruce recognized the leaves’ similarity to Chinese tea and sent samples to Calcutta for formal study. Following Robert’s death, his brother Charles Alexander Bruce continued the research, ultimately confirming that the indigenous plant was a unique native variety: Camellia sinensis var. assamica.
In 1826, the East India Company gained control of Assam after the Treaty of Yandabo. This paved the way for further exploration and exploitation of the region’s resources. A Tea Committee was later formed to formally investigate the origin of tea in Assam following persistent reports of wild tea growing here. Also, Charles continued to work in this direction and eventually confirmed the suitability of the indigenous tea cultivation as a replacement for Chinese tea.
The first Tea Garden or Saah Bagan in Assam
After establishing the first British tea garden at Chabua in Upper Assam, organised tea cultivation began in the region. Planters shipped the first batch of Assam Black Tea to Calcutta (now Kolkata) by 1838. It was enthusiastically received, marking Assam tea’s entry into the global market.
In 1839, entrepreneurs founded the Assam Tea Company, making it India’s first commercial tea producer, and appointed Maniram Dutta Baruah as Dewan (manager) at Nazira, recognising his expertise and leadership. People later famously called him Maniram Dewan.
Image P Phukan – Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=53452206
But by the 1840s, Maniram Dewan resigned from the Assam Tea Company due to disagreements with British officers. He established his tea gardens at Chinamara… and became the first Indian to grow tea commercially. This was probably a challenge to the British monopoly. Eventually, the British executed him for allegedly conspiring against the British during the First War of Indian Independence. People in Assam widely revere him for his contributions.
By the 1860s, Assam had become the world’s leading tea-producing region. The tea industry rapidly transformed the local economy and society as it grew. As demand soared, local innovators developed new techniques to improve output. In 1931, inventors in Assam created the CTC (Crush, Tear, Curl) method, revolutionising tea production. This breakthrough made tea more accessible and affordable for everyone.
Tea, the Major Economic Driver of the Region
In 1947, India gained independence. Even to date, tea remains a major export and economic driver for Assam. Newer reforms are gradually improving conditions for workers and indigenous growers. Today, as mist rises over endless green valleys and the scent of fresh tea fills the air, Assam’s story continues. Each cup carries centuries of tribal knowledge, colonial ambition, and the quiet strength of those who work the land. From the historic origin of tea in Assam and bamboo-smoked Falap to the bustling factories of modern estates, this brew is more than a drink. It is a living story, steeped in resilience, heritage, and the simple magic of a leaf.