I am a late-night person, often working until 2 AM. Even when I try to wake up early, my morning starts around 9 AM. After I wake up, I remain in a sort of delirium until I have my cup of black tea. That gives a kickstart to my day in the real sense. This routine is shared by most Indians, particularly the Assamese, and perhaps most of the people worldwide. Yet few know the origin of tea in Assam, a story as rich as the brew itself.
More amusing is the fact that probably the people from this Assam region and around, who are in such proximity to the tea gardens or the “Saah Bagaan s as we call them, also might not be able to give you a clear account of how Assam tea became the wonder as it is today. I have always found its story fascinating. Though tea is thought to have originated in China, Assam tea is a unique variety native to this region. It has been part of tribal culture for centuries, long before the world knew its name.
The Beginning of Tea in Assam
Assam has been a land of different communities who have their own cultures and traditions since time immemorial. One of these communities, the Singphos, lived in the upper reaches of the Brahmaputra Plains, spread sparingly along the Burma border.
Some of these communities, in general and Shingphos in particular, had the knowledge about this wonder plant, which had medicinal properties. The leaves of this plant, when brewed after following a proper process, can help in curing health issues and rejuvenating during hunting expeditions. The Singpho folklore tells how two brothers, while hunting in the forests, chewed unknown leaves that revived them. Their discovery inspired the community to adopt tea as a daily beverage. The Singphos also preserved the tea in different forms and even pickled it. They called this processed & preserved tea, “Falap“, which was stored inside bamboo containers and smoked. The other local communities have different names for it.
Comes Along Maniram Dewan & Robert Bruce
In 1823, Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce journeyed into Assam, guided by the sharp insights of Maniram Dewan, an official of the Ahom kingdom. Together, they met Singpho chief Bessa Gaum(or Bisa Gam), who introduced them to the wild tea plants thriving in the region. At this time, the Ahom dynasty still ruled Assam, and the British & the Burmese Empire had not yet signed the Treaty of Yandabo. Bruce, captivated by the discovery and recognising the tea’s similarity to the Chinese variety, quickly sent samples to Calcutta for study. After Robert Bruce’s death, his brother Charles Alexander Bruce continued the investigation, confirming that the Assam plant was indeed a variety of Camellia sinensis, the same species as Chinese tea, but a different variety known as Assamica.
In 1826, the East India Company gained control of Assam after the Treaty of Yandabo. This paved the way for further exploration and exploitation of the region’s resources. A Tea Committee was later formed to explore the cultivation of tea in Assam following reports of wild tea growing here. Also, Charles continued to work in this direction and eventually confirmed the suitability of the indigenous tea cultivation as a replacement for Chinese tea.
The first Tea Garden or Saah Bagan in Assam
After establishing the first British tea garden at Chabua in Upper Assam, organised tea cultivation began in the region. Planters shipped the first batch of Assam Black Tea to Calcutta (now Kolkata) by 1838. It was enthusiastically received, marking Assam tea’s entry into the global market.
In 1839, entrepreneurs founded the Assam Tea Company, making it India’s first commercial tea producer, and appointed Maniram Dutta Baruah as Dewan (manager) at Nazira, recognising his expertise and leadership. People later famously called him Maniram Dewan.
Image P Phukan – Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=53452206
But by the 1840s, Maniram Dewan resigned from the Assam Tea Company due to disagreements with British officers. He establishes his tea gardens at Chinamara (Jorhat) and Singlou (Sibsagar) and becomes the first Indian to grow tea commercially. This was probably a challenge to the British monopoly. Eventually, the British executed him for allegedly conspiring against the British during the First War of Indian Independence. People in Assam widely revere him for his contributions.
By the 1860s, Assam had become the world’s leading tea-producing region. The tea industry rapidly transformed the local economy and society as it grew. As demand soared, local innovators developed new techniques to improve output. In 1931, inventors in Assam created the CTC (Crush, Tear, Curl) method, revolutionising tea production. This breakthrough made tea more accessible and affordable for everyone.
Tea, the Major Economic Driver of the Region
In 1947, India gained independence. Even to date, tea remains a major export and economic driver for Assam. Newer reforms are gradually improving conditions for workers and indigenous growers. Today, as mist rises over endless green valleys and the scent of fresh tea fills the air, Assam’s story continues. Each cup carries centuries of tribal knowledge, colonial ambition, and the quiet strength of those who work the land. From the bamboo-smoked Falap to the bustling factories of modern estates, Assam tea is more than a drink. It is a living story, steeped in resilience, heritage, and the simple magic of a leaf.
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